I am making a photo inventory of all my clocks for insurance and need help with lighting. I am trying to take a photo of an English bracket clock mechanism. I can't seem to get the colors right. The clock works are bright brass with a polished silver bell. Tried subdued flash, no flash, angled shots, etc. Generally playing with the camera settings to get accurate color. I want to capture the wood case and works. Just doesn't look correct and am unable to get definition on the decorative engraving on pendulum or back plates. I am thinking that indirect lighting may help with a cream color background. I have seen the umbrella arrangements others use. Is there any set of rules concerning bulb wattage, color used etc. Any books that are good for the beginner covering this?
Thanks, Tom
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Hi Tom,
For definition of the engravings, I'd try direct light from an angle of the plane of the engravings. Start at 45 degrees to see if you can create shadows in them. The color sounds like a white balance issue. The flash has a color temperature of 5500 to 6500. If you set your camera to that, you should get accurate colors for the clocks. If you want a creamier background, maybe use an incandescent light bulb for that. The warmer 3200 temp will yellow up a white wall when the camera's white balance is set to the flashes white balance.

You can also add a white card on the other side of where the flash is to reduce the shadows created by the flash. So aim the flash kinda between the clock and the white card. Adjust the distance of the card to increase or decrease its effect.

Hmmm, I realized I made an assumption you have an off camera flash unit. Yes, no?

Agree with Greg - you might need to adjust your White Balance. Most modern digital cameras allow you to adjust WB and have a series of standard settings based on type of lighting used. In general, if the colors are too yellows, then you need to make WB cooler. If too blue, then of course WB needs to be warmer. Place a pure white card in the same lighting yo are using and take a picture. Adjust WB until the card looks exactly white )not too yellowing and not too bluish)

Off camera light source at a 45° angle to the side. As Greg suggests, a white card or a piece of cardboard covered with aluminum foil can be used as a reflector opposite the flash to lessen the "edge" or "sharpness" of shadows.

As long as the flash is on the same axis as the lens, relief details will be hard to see.


I'd say you may be better off using daylight from a south-facing window and reflectors to highlight the works.

Thanks to everyone! Yes I do have an off camera flash and I will try the WB adjustments. Doc, I never considered trying natural daylight, only thing I didn't think about. I'll keep everyone posted at to the results.

Crumple a sheet of foil and then spread it over a piece of cardboard with the "dull" side out. Tilt it to reflect the window light into the works of the clock while watching the relief shadows in the detail of the works. You'll get it!

Well, the suggestions I have been given have yielded very good results. Not there yet but a little more tweaking with the foil ought to zero it in. Reflecting natural light has brought out the engraving work, which is important for valuing the clock.

You can post a picture when you get it "just right?"

Told ya you'd get it, Tom!

Sometimes a "low tech" solution works best. The K.I.S.S. Rule.

Can we get an update?